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WINCHESTER 

Winchester is located in the beautiful and far-famed 
Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. It is the metropolis of the lower 
Shenandoah Valley and is the oldest place South of the Potomac 
and West of the Blue Ridge. It is therefore rich in historic asso- 
ciations and the seat of an old established society. Winchester 
was established by law in 1752. Tradition places the nucleus of a 
town where Winchester now stands as early as 1732, for it is 
related that two of the best known families now residing in Win- 
chester had their origin in two cabins located on what is now 
known as the town run. This battle-scarred town was the scene 
of many conflicts during the civil war and the town is said to 
have changed hands 72 times. Winchester is about 70 miles 
from Washington across country and 87 miles by the B. & O. Ry. 
It is the Southern terminus of the Cumberland Valley Ry., which 
connects this city with H'arrisburg, Pa. The distance is 116 
miles. Six fine turnpikes also connect Winchester with the out- 
side world. These turnpikes are fine thoroughfares for the 
carriage and automobile and there are many points of interest 
along these pikes. 




FORT LOUDOUN 



The French, with their Indian alHes, had for many years 
gradually been making encroachments upon British territory in 
America, when, in 1753, Maj. Geo. Washington wa^ sent by 
Governor Dinwiddle, the then colonial governor of Virginia with 
a letter to the French commander remonstrating against his 
encroachments upon the territory of Virginia. This letter of 
remonstrance was disregarded by the Frenchman and, in 1754, 
the great French and Indian war, between the British govern- 
ment and France commenced. In the Spring of 1754, the Indians 
suddenly and unexpectedly moved ofif, and entirely left the Valley, 
having been invited by the French to cross the Alleghany Mount- 
ains. After the first battle of the war, the command of the 
Virginia forces, by the sudden death of Colonel Fry, developed 
upon Washington. He erected Fort Necessity which was soon 
attacked by the French and Indians. After a capitulation with the 
enemy, Washington, with his little army, retired to Winchester. 

4 , 



The next year, the British government sent to the colonies Gen. 
Braddock, with two regiments of EngHsh regnlars. He pro- 
ceeded from Alexandria to Winchester, where Washington joined 
him. They then moved on for the West, and within 7 miles of 
Fort Duquesne occurred the unfortunate defeat of Braddock and 
the dreadful slaughter of his army. Immediately after the 
defeat and death of Braddock, Washington retreated to Win- 
chester. The whole western frontier was left exposed to the 
incursions of the Indians and French, who greatly emboldened 
by victory made constant raids upon the settlements and sent the 
murderous savage upon the defenseless inhabitants of the frontier 
of Virginia. Washington was deeply concerned at the situation 
of the defenseless people on the border and did all he could in 
their defense. He prevailed upon the governor to send additional 
forces and to build a fort at Winchester. In 1756, Washington 
built Fort Loudoun, named in honor of the Earl of Loudoun then 
in command of the colonial forces. The location was admirably 
selected since it commands a large extent of country. No foe 
could approach it without being exposed to the rifles of those 
within the fort and no formidable attempts were ever made by 
the enemy against it. The fort covered an area of about half an 
acre. It was erected by the soldiers of the First Virginia Regi- 
ment and Washington is said to have brought some workmen 
from jNIount Vernon to construct the iron work. The fort 
mounted six eighteen pounders, six twelve pounders, six 
six pounders, four swivels and two homitzers. It had a very 
deep well inside the walls. The well, one hundred and three feet 
deep, was cut through solid limestone rock. This well is still an 
object of great interest. Loudoun or Main street, more than a 
century ago, was cut through the fort ; all that remains of it now 
is the southwestern bastion. This, however, together with the 
well are objects of great interest. The bastion is on the lawn of 
the Ft. Loudoun Seminary and the well stands in an adjoining 
yard. 

"SHAWNEE SPRINGS'! 

On the Southeast Suburb of Winchester arc the famous 
Shawnee Springs, supposed to have been the hea(l([uarters or 

5 



Court of the Indian emperor, the father of the great Indian chief, 
Cornstalk. Cornstalk, no doubt, was born and reared in this 
famous "Shawnee Cabins" settlement. The Shawnees are said to 
have been the most bloody and terrible of Indian warriors and it 
is supposed that the entire valley was held by the powerful con- 
federacy of Shawnees, when the first settlers came here. It was 
chiefly the Shawnees that defeated Braddock's army in 1755. 




ROUSS SPRING 

Just a very short distance southeast of the famous Shawnee 
Springs is a very large spring, now known as "Rouss Spring." 
From this spring, Winchester gets its water supply. The Hol- 
Hngsworth family have been in continuous possession of this 
place since it was surveyed in November, 1732, for Abraham 
Hollingsworth, the first settler in this immediate section. , It is 
said that Abraham Hollingsworth, as a squatter, had lived here 
several years before this. In this year, 1732, Abraham's father 
paid him a visit and was killed by a buffalo while hunting here. 

6 



The house, which now stands near the spring and which is 
occupied by the descendants of Abraham HolHngsworth, was 
built in 1754 and has often been attacked by the Indians. In 
this house have been entertained Washington, Fairfax, Daniel 
Morgan and other noted men. Many interesting relics of the 
olden days are now in the possession of this family. 




TAYLOR HOTEL 

This very famous hotel is located on Main street about half 
way between Water and Piccadilly streets. This spot has been 
occupied as a hotel site continuously since Edward McGuire, in 
1753, came to Winchester and built, on this same spot, the noted 
McGuire tavern. This most noted and high-toned tavern was 
the meeting place for all public affairs and is frequently mentioned 
in the old newspapers. The original house consisted of two long 
log and weather-boarded buildings, fifty feet each in length, with 
an alley dividing them. Next to this house stood Brady's tavern, 
in the rear of which, in 1808, the first clei)hant ever exhibited in 
the valley made his debut. 



A man by the name of Barrick succeeded McGuire and 
Barrick was succeeded by Bushrod Taylor from whom the hotel 
got its present name. Taylor ran a stage line from his hotel to 
Alexandria and this was a great public convenience at that time 
when railroads were just beginning to be thought of. 




HOUSE IN WHICH DANIEL MORGAN DIED 



This house is located on Amherst street near Washington 
street. Morgan, who had become infirm with age, in 1800, moved 
to Winchester and resided in this house with his youngest 
daughter, who had married Maj. James Heard. In this house 
he died July 6th, 1802. He was buried in the old Presbyterian 
graveyard at the end of Piccadilly street. His gravestone was 
much mutilated during the civil war and after the war his remains 
were removed to Mt. Hebron Cemetery, where they now lie and 
over which are fragments of the slab brought from the old 
burying place. 



COURT HOUSE (Built 1840) 

Used as hospital during civil war by Confederate and Fed- 



eral armies. 




WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS 

This interesting old building stands at the corner of Braddock 
and Cork streets. Washington had been given the command of 
all the forces raised and to be raised in Virginia and he made 
Winchester his headquarters. This building was used as head- 
quarters in 1755, before Ft. Loudoun was completed. 

CANNON BALL HOUSE 

This house stands on the northwest corner of Main and 
Clifford streets. During the civil war a cannon ball passed 
entirely through the house. There is a black spot painted on the 
north wall showing where the ball entered the house and on the 
south side of the house, the ball itself, protruding from the wall, 
shows where it emerged. 




STONEWALL JACKSON'S HEADQUARTERS 

From the Fall of 1861 to the Spring of 1862, General T. J. 
(Stonewall) Jackson occupied as his headquarters the Moore 
house on Peyton street between Braddock and Washington streets. 
During that time he boarded at the Presbyterian parsonage 
then and now occupied by the Rev. J. R. Graham. He worshiped 
at the old Kent Street Church, and many yet living remember 
him gravely walking down to church on Sunday mornings when 
he was not occupied in fighting. ■ 

HOUSE IN WHICH PRESIDENT MCKINLEY WAS 
MADE A MASON 

The building in which WilHam McKinley, afterwards Presi- 
dent of the United States, was made a Mason is still intact and 
stands on the east side of Main street about three doors from the 
corner of Piccadilly street. 

McKinley was an officer in the Union army and it was while 
fighting near Winchester that he joined the Masonic order. 
While in one of the hospitals, he noticed that certain persons 
were receiving much attention and care regardless of whether 
they belonged to the Union army or to the Confederate. On 
inquiry, he was told that they were brother Masons. McKinley 

10 



then made known his desire to associate himself with an order 
in which brotherhood was such a paramount tenet. 

Mr. McKinley and his wife paid Winchester a visit and spent 
a day here while he was President of the United States. 




SHERIDAN'S HEADQUARTERS 

Located on the Southwest corner of Braddock and Piccadilly 
Streets. From here, on the morning of Oct. 19, 1864, Gen. 
Sheridan started on his ride to Cedar Creek battlefield — a ride 
made famous by the verses of Thomas P)uchanan Read. 

FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH EDIFICE 
IN WINCHESTER 

This large stone building, now^ used as a school for col- 
ored children, is located just East of the B. & O. R. R. Station 
and on a ridge where, at one time, were four churches all in 
a row. It was built in 1790. Before this date the members 

II 



of the Presbyterian denomination which was possibly the 
oldest religious society in the vicinity of Winchester, wor- 
shiped at the old Opequon Church at Kernstown. In 1838, 
when there was a division in the church the old stone building 
was abandoned and the two branches — the "Old School" and 
the "Nev/ School" built separate church edifices. 




CHRIST CHURCH (Episcopal) 

This church was first located on the Southwest corner 
of the public square, on a lot given by Lord Fairfax in 1752. 
Lord Fairfax was buried in the graveyard of the old church 
but upon the sale of the lot to private individuals, his remains 
were removed and now repose under the altar of the new 
church at the corner of Water and Washington Streets. Fair- 
fax died in 1781, age 90 years, at Greenway Court, Clarke Co., 
Virginia. 



JOHN KERR PUBLIC SCHOOL BUILDING 

This was the first public gift to Free Education in the 
State of Virginia. Presented to Winchester by John Kerr. 
Located on Southwest corner of Market and Cork Streets. 

12 



STAR FORT 

Just north of Winchester many earthworks were thrown 
up during the civil war. Many of them are now standing, 
Star Fort being the most conspicuous. Milroy, who com- 
manded the Union Forces, held these fortifications after he 
had improved and strengthened them. It was supposed that 
it would be a difficult job to dislodge him with his 7000 men. 
But on June 13th, 1863, Gen. Ewell, leading General Lee's 
advance Corps, gave battle to General Milroy and hemmed 
him in so closely that it was only at the end of the second day 
and after very hard fighting, that Milroy succeeded in cutting 
his way out. More than half of Milroy's army was captured 
and the rest escaped in small detachments. 

"GLEN BURNIE" 

"Glen Burnie," the former residence of Governor James 
\\^ood, loth governor of Virginia, is on the western suburb 
of Winchester. It is now the residence of Colonel W. A¥. 
Glass. 

UNITED STATES MILITARY CEMETERY 

This cemetery, in which 2,098 known dead and 2,382 
unknown dead are buried, was established and dedicated x\pnl 
8, 1866. At the entrance to the cemetery is the Superintend- 
ent's lodge, and none but disabled meritorious officers or pri- 
vates of the United States army can hold the position as 
Superintendent, under a law in relation thereto. In the cen- 
ter of the grounds is a large mound surmounted by a flag- 
staff sixty feet in height, to the top of which is hoisted at 
sunrise and lowered at sunset, every day in the year, a United 
States flag. Names and dates of battles from the scenes of 
which the dead were removed to this cemetery: Kernstown, 
March 23, 1862; Union forces under Gen. Shields, Confeder- 
ates under Gen. Stonewall Jackson. Banks retreat. May 23. 
1862. Miles' Surrender, Sept., 1862 at Harpers Ferry. Alil- 
roy's fight, June 1862. Martinsburg, July 25, 1864. Winches- 
ter, Sept. 19, 1864. Cedar Creek, Oct. 19, 1864, Union forces 

13 ■ 



under Gen: Sheridan, Confederates under Gen. Early. Many 
were found buried where skirmishes had taken place in the 
vicinity of Winchester. 

MT. HEBRON CEMETERY 

On the 24th of June, 1844, the present beautiful "Mount 
Hebron Cemetery" was .dedicated, with impressive and exten- 
sive religious and other services in the presence of a large 
assemblage. It is situated upon a commanding eminence just 
outside of the city limits and contains 35 acres of land. It is 
one of the loveliest spots of ground for the purpose to which 
it is dedicated, to be found anywhere. The prayer, offered 
by Dr. Wm. M. Atkinson at the dedication, is a rare and 
beautiful gem. It has been published. In August, 1844, the 
wife of Dr. Atkinson died and she was the first person whose 
remains were interred in this cemetery. Dr. Atkinson, him- 
self, died on the 27th of Feb., 1849 ^.nd is buried in this 
same cemetery. 

In the front of the grounds, near the gate, and with a 
vacant space surrounding it, is the grave of General Daniel 
Morgan. On the broken slab that covers the grave is this 
inscription : 

Major-General Daniel Morgan 

departed this life 

On July 6th, 1802, 

In the 67tli year of his age 

Patriotism and Valor were the 

Prominent Features of his Character, 

and 

The honorable services he rendered 

to his Country 

During the Revolutionary War 

Crowned him with Glory, and will 

remain in the hearts of his 

Countrymen 

A Perpetual Monument 

to his 

memory. 

14 



STONEWALL CEMETERY 

Within Mt. Hebron Cemetery is situated the Confederate 
Stonewall Cemetery. This was opened formally on October 
9, 1866. The crowning" feature of this "bivouac of the dead" 
is the magnificent marble monument — a shaft 48 feet high, 
surmounted by a Confederate soldier. Beneath it lie the 
remains of 829 unknown soldiers. On the base of the monu- 
ment are the words : "To the Unknown Dead." On another 
portion of the base are the words : "Who they were none 
know ; what they were all know." - 




RUINS OF OLD LUTHERAN CHURCH 

Within the enclosure of Mt. Hebron Cemetery stands the 
ruins of the old Lutheran church. The site was given by Lord 
Fairfax in 1753 and the building was commenced in 1764 but was 
not completed till 1793, which date it bore on the gable end. 
In 1772 the walls were completed. The spire was not erected 
until 1821. During the Revolutionary War — 1775-81, the 
church was used for a barracks. In 1785, when Rev. Christian 
Streit took charge of the church, there were no doors nor win- 

15 



dow-g'lass nor shutters. In 1790, they had cast at Bremen, 
Germany, two bells of extraordinary sweetness, and in 1795 
they had an organ put in. 




THE VALLEY TURNPIKE 

The Valley Pike extends from Winchester to Staunton, 
Va., a distance of 92 miles. It traverses the far-famed Valley 
of the Shenandoah and is a great thoroughfare for the tourist. 
With the beautiful Blue Ridge on the East, the rugged Moun- 
tains of the Alleghanies on the West, and the fertile fields 
spread out before the eye, the tourist has a most inspiring 
scene. There are many points of interest along this thor- 
oughfare and many battles have been fought near it. Over 
the first part of this pike, Sheridan's famous ride from Win- 
chester to Cedar Creek took place. When the tourist enters 
the "Vale of Shenandoah" he is eager to see the "old mill by 
the way." He is not disappointed when he drives out the 
Valley Pike, for within about one mile of town, the old Hol- 
lingsworth Mill greets his eye. This beautiful stone mill, 
which was purchased in 1873 by Mr. Festus Hahn, was built 



in 1834 by Isaac Holling"swortli. The large brick house just 
South of the mill was also built by the Hollingsworths. From 
this point, can be seen three mills all run by the same little 
stream of water which has its source only about a mile from here. 
This little stream, which crosses the pike a short distance 
further on, turns five or six other mills before it empties into 
the Opequon about 5 miles below town. It is called Abram's 
Creek after Abraham Hollingsworth, one of the very first 
settlers in this vicinity. 

Where the creek crosses the road stands the body of 
an old tree that was pierced by a cannon ball during the 
civil war. 

A short distance further on and about two miles from 
Winchester, the Cedar Creek grade intersects the pike. Here 
stands a very interesting and historic toll-gate. This is the 
oldest gate on the pike and the same family has been taking 
the toll since 1840 wdien the gate was built. It was here 
that Charlotte Hillman, a young and beautiful girl, held up 
Sheridan's army and insisted upon the usual tribute of toll. 
When Sheridan and his staff, heading the army, reached the 
toll-gate, the toll-pole was down and guarded by Miss Hillman, 
who demanded toll. Sheridan paid his toll and his staff fol- 
lowed his example. "But," said Sheridan as he passed through 
the gate, "I cannot vouch for my army." When the common 
soldiery came up Miss Hillman raised the poll, but stood 
at her post all day long cutting a notch in the toll-pole for 
every ten soldiers who passed the gate. After the war was 
over Miss Hillman counted the notches in the toll-pole and 
sent her bill to Washington. The bill was promptly paid. 
This lady kept the toll-gate until her death a few years ago 
and her son now takes the toll. 

KERNSTOWN 

Kernstown is on the Valley Pike and four miles from 
W^inchester. A short distance west of the village stands the 
Presbyterian church. ITere can be seen the foundation walls 
of the old Presbvterian or as it is claimed by the Reformers, 

17 



the Reformed Calvinist church. This was one of the very 
first, if not the first church in the valley. In the graveyard 
are many ancient graves and tombstones. One rude slab of 
the native limestone, rudely lettered and now almost en- 
tirely illegible bears the date of 1742. This is the oldest tomb- 
stone in the entire valley. It is to the memory of the wife and 
two children of a Mr. Wilson, an Irishman who is said to 
have been the school master of that section. 

KERNSTOWN BATTLEFIELD 

Oyer on the ridge, about i^ miles West of Kernstown is 
the Kernstown battlefield. Here the Confederates under 
Stonewall Jackson and the Federals under Gen. Shields 
clashed in one of the sharpest encounters of any of the valley 
campaign. When the firing began at four o'clock in the 
afternoon, the lines were almost within stone's throw of each 
other. Both the Federals and the Confederates were endeav- 
oring to reach a long stone fence which ran across an open 
field when the Twenty-fourth Virginia, running rapidly for- 
ward arrived at this natural breastwork and poured a volley 
into the enemy who were then only ten or fifteen yards away. 
Shield's force, with an overwhelming number, soon swept 
over the fence and drove the Confederate wing into the woods, 
taking two guns and a number of prisoners. This fierce and 
frightful engagement in which Jackson lost nearly 20 per cent, 
of his force, lasted until nightfall when Jackson decided to 
fall back to Cedar Creek. Gen. Shields lost 600 men. The 
old stone fence is still standing and the earthworks, extending 
about a mile, are still well preserved. These earthen breast- 
works were thrown up during the second Kernstown battle. 
The old soldiers who fought here will find many other old 
relics still standing on the battlefield. One that is especially 
striking is a large oak tree which had its body pierced with 
many minnie balls. Two men whose names were Dick Hotzel 
and Maj. Booker, were shot behind this tree.. This Battle of 
Kernstown was fought on March 23, 1862. In driving to this 
battlefield from Winchester, leave the Valley Pike about 100 



yards south of Hillman's toll-gate and drive i^ miles. .1 what 
is called the Middle road. 

HACK PLACE AT BARTONSVILLE 

Continuing on up the pike, we come to Bartonsville, six 
miles from Winchester. At this place, just before passing 
through the covered bridge over the Opequon, we see a fine 
stone dwelling house, the home of Mrs. Arbuckle. This is 
the old Barton homestead and the house, which was built 
in 1753 by Col. John Hite, was considered by far the finest 
dwelling house west of the Blue Ridge. 

STEPHENS CITY 

Stephens City, 8 miles from Winchester, ranks next to 
Winchester in age of establishment by law. This town was 
established by Act of Assembly, Sept. 1758, only six years 
after the establishment of Winchester. The town was settled 
almost entirely by Germans and the German language was 
in general use for 70 years. Many years ago the town was 
considerable of a manufacturing center, especially in wagons. 
The town was first founded by Peter Stephens, who came to 
Virginia with Joist Hite, in the year 1732. In 1775, two 
travelling Methodist preachers, John Hagerty and Richard 
Owens came over from East of the Blue Ridge and stopped 
over Sunday with Maj. Lewis Stephens. On Sunday morning 
notice was sent through the town and these two preachers 
delivered sermons. This was doubtless the first Methodist 
preaching ever heard in the Valley of Virginia. 

VAUCLUSE 

Vaucluse, 10 miles from Winchester is also known as 
Chrisman's Spring. There is very fine spring water here 
and on the bank just above the spring and near the pike are 
the old foundations of a house built by Jacob Chrisman, one 
of the first settlers in the valley and a son-in-law of Joist 
Hite. Hite and his three sons-in-law came here from York, 
Pa., in 1732. In 1794, the old log mill at this place was built 
and for 17 years previous to the building of this mill, a flax- 
seed-oil-mill stood on the same site. At Chrisman's Spring 

19 



took place the first camp meeting held in the Valley of Vir- 
ginia. 

From Winchester to this point, we have been driving on 
the very same ground over which Sheridan galloped to Cedar 
Creek battlefield but we will have to leave Gen. Sheridan be- 
fore we reach Middletown, 13 miles from Winchester, for it 
was between Stephens City and Middletown that Sheridan 
met his fleeing forces. It was between these two towns 
that Gen. Wright succeeded in stopping the retreat and was 
preparing to form his line of battle when Sheridan arrived. 
The Confederates, who, thinking that the stricken Federal 
troops were on their final retreat to Winchester, stopped to 
pillage the deserted camps, were attacked and utterly routed. 
Within an hour Sheridan had not only regained all of his 
own men that had been captured the same morning but he 
made prisoners of as many Confederates. When this Battle 
of Cedar Creek took place, Oct. 19, 1864, Sheridan's men were 
camped on Cedar Creek, just where the B. & O. Ry. crosses 
the creek. It was here that the Confederates, under Gen. 
Early, surprised the Federals in Camp, captured eighteen 
pieces of artillery, 1,500 prisoners and an immense amount 
of camp equipage. The rout of the Union men was complete 
but before the day was over Sheridan had turned the tide 
of battle and almost destroyed Early's wasted army. 

BELLE GROVE 

Gen. Sheridan and his staff made their headquarters on 
the Belle Grove farm, one of the most historic farms of the 
Shenandoah Valley. This farm was originally part of the 
Hite estate of 12,000 acres. It now contains 316 acres. It is 
at Meadow Mills P. O. about 15 miles from Winchester. 
It is about ii/^ miles from the Valley pike on the first road 
turning off the pike to the right South of Middletown. The Val- 
ley Pike crosses Cedar Creek just 15 miles from Winchester. Just 
across the creek, on the East side of the pike are the ruins 
of a mill. This mill was burned by Sheridan's soldiers. In 
the meadows just below the mill is where the calvary stam- 
pede took place. 

20 



On the ^^'est side of the road is a very nice brick house. 
This house, which was built in 1858, was used as a hospital 
during- the war. At one time the house and yard were full 
of the wounded and dying. The present kitchen table was used 
as an operating table. Once, when Ashby had his guns planted 
on the round hill back of the house, a premature shot sent a 
cannon ball through the upper part of the wall of this house. 
A wounded Confederate soldier, a boy of about 18 years , 
was secretly nursed and cared for in one of the upper rooms 
of the house, while the Union men were in possession of it. He 
was a Frederick County boy, named Rinker, and is still 
living. 

STRASBURG 

Strasburg, on the Valley Pike is 18 miles from ^^^inches- 
ter. Just back of this town the North Fork of the Shenandoah 
river passes around the North end of the JNIassanutten JMoun- 
tain from the top of which Generals Early and Gordon planned 
the attack of the Battle of Cedar Creek. 

CEDAR CREEK GRADE 

The Cedar Creek graded road extends from Hillman's 
toll-gate two miles south of Winchester to Marlboro, a small 
village on Cedar Creek. This was the first road leading to 
Winchester that was ever constructed. In 1745, Samuel Glass, 
grandfather of Col. Wm. W. Glass, Vance ]\Iarks, Paul Fro- 
man and others near Cedar Creek were appointed by the court, 
to lay out the best and nearest route to the County Seat, and 
mark the way through the big timbers. Nathaniel Cartmell 
and Paul Froman were appointed by the court as overseers 
of the road. About two miles from Hillman's toll-gate and 
four miles from AVinchester are the historic Glass farms. In 
1736 Samuel Glass, one of the first settlers in the valley, 
came from Brainbridge, Ireland and settled on the "Rose 
Hill" farm. On this farm the two battles of Kernstown were 
fought. The "Rose Hill" farm has been in the possession of 
the Glass family continuously since 1736. A descendant of Sam- 
uel Glass, Col. \A ni. A\'. Glass, of "Glen Burnie" is the pres- 

21 



eiit owner of this farm. On M. Robert Glass' farm is a house 
used as a fort during Braddock's war but was never troubled 
by the Indians. The fort now forms a part of the present 
dwelling house. 

Five miles from Winchester, the Cedar Creek road crosses 
the Opequon near its source. At this little village of Opequon 
are several Springs which form the head of the beautiful and 
historic Opequon Creek. Near one of these springs is the old 
Cartmell home where seven generations of that name have 
lived. This home is the property now known as the Mathias 
Miller farm. Eleven miles from Winchester the Cedar Creek 
grade forks at the Casper Rinker home, now owned by Mr. 
North Clagett. The main road leads to Marlboro, two miles 
distant and the right hand road which turns down the hill 
crosses Cedar Creek about a half mile from where the 
roads forked. Just before crossing Foreman's Run there is a 
beautiful spring of clear mountain water. This spring at- 
tracts considerable attention in the neighborhood because of 
its intermittent character. Because of its ebbing and flowing 
at more or less regular intervals, many people are lead to the 
mistaken idea that this spring is in some way connected with 
the tides of the ocean. In the side of the little North Mountain 
just back of the spring is a subterranean reservoir which col- 
lects and holds the water supply for the spring. From this 
reservoir to the spring, the water flows through a syphon- 
shaped passage way. The water can flow out to the spring 
faster than it collects in the reservoir but it will not begin to 
flow until the water in the reservoir is on the same level with 
the highest point of the syphon-shaped outlet. The water in 
the reservoir, having reached this level, will continue to flow 
out to the spring until the level of the water in the reservoir is 
the same as the opening leading from it or until the reservoir 
is emptied if the opening be at the bottom. The water will then 
cease to flow out to the spring until the water being collected in 
the reservoir again reaches the highest level. This is the sim- 
ple explanation of the ebbing and flowing of the spring which 
is not and could not be connected with the tides of the ocean. 

2.2 .' \ 



Where the road crosses the creek and about fifty yards 
down stream on the West bank is the natural curiosity called 
"Butterfly rocks." These rocks, which are of deep brown 
color, and of the slate species, contain the fossil remains of 
fish — a sort of broad, flat fish that were cjuite numerous at the 
time these rocks were forming". These fossil imprints are 
about the size of butterflies and look so much like butter- 
flies that this name has been applied to the rocks. The visitor 
to this rock invariably takes away with him a number of these 
fossils as souvenirs. 

Between Foreman's run and Cedar Creek stands a stone 
house which was used as a fort when the Indians were so 
numerous in these parts. 

About one mile further up Cedar Creek and b)^ the road- 
side is another of these stone forts. This house was built 
while Great Britain ruled this country and many relics of 
Indian warfare are in and about this house. The water from 
a spring near the road was brought through wooden pipes 
into the cellar of the house. The stone walls of the house 
are thick and substantial and the windows were small — port- 
holes through which many a savage foe has been shot by those 
early settlers who were so often in danger of losing their 
scalp and who. often had to fight fiercely in order to protect 
themselves and families from the cruel tortures and death at 
the hands of the savages. About one hundred yards or so from 
this house and right by the roadside is the Indian Rock, 
around which so many Indians were buried. Even now, by 
digging a little under ground near the rock some of the In- 
dian bones can be found. These points of interest are on the 
road leading to Mountain Falls and those who drive from 
Winchester to Capon Springs by the Cedar Creek grade route 
pass right by them. 

Coming back to the forks of the road at Mr. Clagett's and 
driving about two miles further on the main road to the left we 
arrive at the village of Marlboro, near which some of the first 
settlers in the valley had their homes and where it is claimed 
was the first church in the valley (Kernstown also makes this 



same claim. There are two churches in the village. The Baptist 
church is very old but the Presbyterian is the one claimed to have 
been the first. The present church was built on the foundation 
of this first church. 

In the south part of the village and on the north bank of 
Cedar Creek is where Zane's iron works and the old forge stood. 
Stephen's fort stood on this same spot before the iron works were 
constructed. On Turkey Run, about a mile west of Marlboro, is 
the farm known in colonial days as the "Smith Farm," and now 
owned by Mr. A. E. Robinson. It was on this farm that the five 
skeletons buried side by side were found and unearthed in April 
of the present year, 1908. The skeletons were found between 
the road and the fence, which indicates that they were placed 
there before the road was constructed. As the road is known to 
have been in use for nearly a century, it gives some idea of the 
remoteness of the burial of the now unknown subjects. Kerche- 
val, in his History of the Valley says "about the same time," about 
the year 1758, "the Indians forcibly entered the house of Mr. 
Young, who resided on the farm now owned by William Smith, 
Esq. Not more than a mile from Zane's old iron works, and 
killed several of his family. They took an infant, dashed its head 
against a rock, beat out its brains, and left it lying on the ground. 
Two of Young's daughters, pretty well grown, were carried off 
prisoners." Those slain by the Red men were buried by a Mr. 
Fry, who pursued the Indians and recaptured those whom they 
had taken prisoners. The burial place of the above-named vic- 
tims seems to have been entirely lost to all persons in the 
neighborhood. The general impression is that the skeletons are 
all that is mortal remaining of those of that remote and unlucky 
family, who perished by the tomahawk wielded by the treacherous 
and merciless Redskins, and who have been resting in that 
unknown grave for a century and a half, to be discovered at this 
late day. It is evident that the burials were hurriedly made as 
the bodies were not placed in coffins or boxes of any kind. Mr. 
Robinson re-buried the skeletons near the roadside at the place 
where they were found. He prepared an elaborate slab of stone 
which he placed in the bank to^ answer as the face or the front 

24 



of the grave or vault, as it might be called, and will place on it an 
appropriate inscription. He marked the spot with a monument 
of his own design and handiwork. Mr. Robinson says this spot, 
which is a lovely place for the tomb of these unknown dead, 
shall be held sacred and be cared for so long as it remains under 
his jurisdiction. 

HACKWOOD PARK FARM 

This farm which is located about two and a half miles 
north of Winchester on the Red Bud road has become noted 
by reason of the warfare on and around it. The building now 
used as a kitchen is said to have been used by General Wash- 
ington at one time. The same building was occupied by Un- 
ion officers during the late war, and used as a hospital on the 
19th of September, 1864. Gen. Thomas and the soldiers of 
Vermont have erected a monument on this farm at a spot 
where a number of Vermont soldiers w^ere killed on the above 
date. Gen. John Smith, who first owned the farm, settled here 
in 1772. He died in 1837 in his 90th year and is buried in the 
family lot at Hackwood Park. 

BOYCE, MILLWOOD AND WINCHESTER TURNPIKE 

This Pike leaves Winchester by the southeast suburb 
and extends in a southeasterly direction. It crosses the 
Opequon about 5 miles from Winchester and the Shenandoah 
river 14 miles from Winchester. Three miles beyond the 
Shenandoah the road crosses the Blue Ridge at a point where 
the three counties, Clarke, Loudoun and Fauquier join. The 
old poplar tree that marked this point has recently been sawed 
down so that only the stump now remains to mark this junc- 
tion point. At the foot of the mountain on the East Side is 
the beautiful little village of Paris and Upperville is 4 miles 
further on. The road crosses the mountain through the fa- 
mous Ashby's gap. 

BOYCE 

Boyce is 9 miles from Winchester and at the intersection 
of the Millwood pike with the Norfolk and ^^'estern R. R. 

25 



About y^ miles from this village is "Saratoga," the home of 
Gen. Daniel Morgan. Saratoga was constructed in 1781. 
The house was built by the aid of Hessian prisoners who 
even quarried the stones and brought them in wheel barrows 
from near the Opequon Creek. 

About ly^ miles Northeast of Boyce and about three 
miles South of Berry ville is an object of great interest to all 
visitors in these regions. Old Chapel, one of the old landmarks 
of Clarke County, should properly be called Cunningham's 
Chapel, as it is the successor of one that was known by that 
name from the earliest settlement of the valley. The first 
structure was built of logs as were all the churches for many 
years afterwards but it is thought that a rude stone building 
replaced this first one. The land upon which the original 
chapel stood had come into the possession of Col. Nathaniel 
Burwell who gave two acres of land for the purpose of placing 
upon it a substantial stone edifice, which was completed in 
1790 and this is the present "Old Chapel" so famous for its 
graveyard and antique surroundings. In the graveyard sur- 
rounding the chapel are buried hundreds of the leading citi- 
zens of their time who resided in this locality. Most of them 
are unmarked by any slab or stone. For over one hundred and 
fifty years this sacred spot has been used as a cemetery. John 
Easton Cooke is buried in this graveyard and Marquis Calmes, 
a French Hugenot nobleman, was a vestryman of the Cunning- 
ham chapel. He married an English lady. Miss Winnifred 
Walker. On a horizontal slab of granite, which is the oldest 
monument in the cemetery adjoining the "Old Chapel" appears 
the following inscription : "Here lies the body of Winnifred, 
the wife of Major Marquis Calmes. They were joined in wed- 
lock 26 years and had six children. She was a loving, vir- 
tuous and industrious wife, a tender mother and kind mis- 
tress. She departed this life Oct. 6th, Anno Domini 1751." 
The "Old Chapel" is constructed of native limestone. The 
interior of the chapel is very interesting. A padlock fastens the 
ancient door and its great iron hinges creak as it is moved. In 
the front of the room is a small platform upon which stands the 

26 



reading desk. An hexag-onal pulpit stands on the left of the 
platform and over it is the sounding board. A small robing 
room stands in the corner near by. To the right of the pulpit 
is a tablet to the memory of Bishop Meade, who for many 
years was assistant rector and rector of the chapel. Over the rear 
entrance and extending half way across the interior is a servant's 
gallery, where the drivers and attendants of the grand folk 
of the olden times could hear the Word expounded and participate 
in the services. This gallery was reached by a separate door 
from the main entrance. 

WHITE POST 

Five miles South of Boyce is the village of White Post 
so called from the fact that Lord Fairfax here set up a post 
which he painted white and on which was painted directions 
for going to Greenway Court and Cunningham's chapel. A 
little more than a mile South of here is "Greenway Court," 
where Lord Fairfax built him a home and where he died after 
living here 32 years. Fairfax reserved 10,000 acres for this 
manor. The old trees that stood in front of the mansion and 
are said to have been planted by Fairfax are still standing and 
the fllagstones are still in the yard. The old barn and the 
house used by Fairfax and Washington as an office are still 
standing. In this house Fairfax held court. "Greenway 
Court" is six miles from Boyce and fifteen miles from Win- 
chester going by way of Boyce. The road between Boyce 
and Greenway Court has recently been macadamized. Fair- 
fax worshiped at Old Chapel eight miles from his home and 
the road leading to the chapel is a direct route between these 
. two places. From Winchester, we may drive on the Front 
Royal road to the double toll-gate, turn to the left here and 
thence by White Post to Greenway Court. The distance this 
way is about the same or possibly a little less than by way of 
Boyce and the road is very good. 

MILLWOOD 

Millwood is a little more than a mile East of Boyce. A 
mill was established here as early as 1760 and it was known 

27 



as Biirwell's Mill at a very early day. This mill is supposed 
to have stood on the site of the present mill which was built 
many years ago. The "Carter Hall" farm is near this village. 
Three miles from here and near the Shenandoah river is the 
"Vineyard Plantation." This was owned by Marquis Calmes 
and it was here that was planted the first vineyard in the 
Shenandoah Valley. Marquis Calmes died in 1751 and was 
buried on this plantation. His wife is buried in Old Chapel 
graveyard and the slab over her grave is the oldest monument 
in this cemetery. 

BERRYVILLE AND WINCHESTER TURNPIKE 

This pike crosses the Opequon Creek five miles east of 
Winchester. On the east bank of the creek at this point 
is a fine limestone spring. Just across the creek on the west 
bank Mr. Joseph Carter settled in 1743. Very near Mr. Car- 
ter's residence was a beautiful grove of forest timber and 
this grove was, at the time of Mr. Carter's first settlement, 
a favorite camping ground of the Indians. Sometimes two 
or three hundred Indians at a time would assemble and re- 
main for several weeks together. 

Berryville is 10 miles from Winchester and it was near 
here that Daniel Morgan had his home before he built "Sara- 
toga." When Morgan was a child his parents settled in what 
is now the northern edge of Warren County but Morgan came 
to Berryville to live when he was a young man. This home 
was known as "Soldier's Rest" and while he lived at this place, 
tradition states that he contributed largely in conferring on 
the little village the name Battle Town. Morgan lived at 
this place until he built "Saratoga" in 1781. 

The lower floor of the main building of Morgan's mansion 
consists of two large rooms divided by a wide hall crossed at 
right angles by a narrow one, which leads into an immense 
apartment with many windows, several doors and a huge, 
old-fashioned fire-place. There is a mantle piece that is said 
to have been brought from England. At the time of its being- 
placed it was considered an elaborate piece of work, and the 

28 



neighbors gathered in to see it. It is of pine wood and in 
excellent preservation. 

About 100 3^ards from the house is a magnificent willow 
tree under which the old hero of Cowpens doubtless often re- 
clined and drank in the fine scenery round about. 

About 5 miles East of Berryville the pike crosses the 
Shenandoah River and about three miles further on we cross 
the Blue Ridge through Snicker's gap and come to the little 
village of Bluemont. A branch of the Southern Ry. connects 
this village with Washington City, 57, miles away. A short 
distance from the Bluemont gap, is the "Bear's Den." From 
this point the view over the Valley is a grand one. As far as 
the eye can reach the most enchanting landscape presents it- 
self. The silvery streams in Serpentine coils wind in and 
out for miles away while the mighty Shenandoah lies just 
below us. In the far distance mountain upon mountain seems 
piled one upon the other. This is the same view that burst 
upon the enraptured sight of Gen. Spotswood when on Sep- 
tember 5, 1716 he first looked upon this beautiful valley. 

CHARLES TOWN, W. VA. 

A fine turnpike and also the Norfolk and Western Ry. 
connects Berryville with Charles Town. Geo. Washington's 
brother Charles and his eldest whole brother Samuel came 
to this county about 1750. The town was named after 
Charles Washington, who owned the land upon which Charles 
Town is laid out. 

Samuel owned the track of land called Harewood, upon 
which he built, about 1750, the stone building now standing. 
■It was at Charles Town that John Brown and his companions 
were tried and hanged. 

DAVENPORT FARM, CHARLES TOWN, W. VA. 

This magnificent farm of 1,200 acres was purchased from 
Charles Washington in 1793. by Abram Davenport, whose 
descendants have owned it ever since that time. This farm 
is one of the most scientific and best managed farms in the 
Shenandoah Valley. The Davenport farm seemed to be the 

29 



objective point of every army on both sides for a place of 
encampment when passing through the country, and by the 
time the war closed there was not a fence on it. 

On this farm are the picturesque ruins of the old Nor- 
borne Church. These old ruins may be seen from the B. & O. 
Ry. 

Six miles East of Charles Town, Wm. and John Vestall 
settled at a very early date. While they were building the 
stone house that is still standing, they were attacked by In- 
dians and driven across the Shenandoah to the mountains. 
When they returned they brought a yellowish stone from 
across the river, placed it in the wall and this marks the 
point where they had left off building in consequence of the 
attack. This place is on the Shenandoah river and it was 
here that the first iron works west of the Blue Ridge was 
erected in 1742. The ruins of the "Old Bloomery" are still 
to be seen. 

CAPON SPRINGS 

There are many fine springs near Winchester but Capon 
is one of the largest resorts in the Valley. About six hundred 
guests are entertained here each season. This resort is 22 
miles from Winchester and by driving out the Northwestern 
grade 12 miles and turning to the left at Gore P. O., we pass 
Rock Enon Springs, six miles this side of Capon. If we return 
to Winchester from Capon by the Wardensville and Cedar 
Creek grades, the distance is also about 22 miles and by this 
route we pass the Cold Spring, Pembroke Springs and Coal 
Mine Spring. When we reach the top of the Great North 
Mountain about three miles this side of Capon Springs we may 
tie our horses and walk up to Eagle Rock, from which eleva- 
tion we behold a scene not soon to be forgotten. From this 
point Winchester, Kernstown, Middletown, Strasburg and 
other towns and villages in the valley can be picked out. We 
can see the Blue Ridge on the East, the Alleghanies on the 
West and numerous hills and valleys between. 



30 



FAIRVIEW ACADEMY, 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 
L. ADOLPH RICHARDS, M. A., M. S., PRINCIPAL 

The Fairview Academy is a school where men and women 
regardless of age and preliminary education, receive instruc- 
tion and preparation for almost any position they may wish 
to fill. The Faculty of the school is composed of men who 
hold post-graduate degrees from such universities as the 
Johns Hopkins, Harvard and University of Virginia. These 
men give personal attention to each student and aim to give 
the most thorough preparation for the position the student 
wishes to fill. 

We give special preparation for entrance to the Classified 
Civil Service of the United States and those who have charge 
of this instruction have held some of the best positions in the 
government service. 

Entrance to the Civil Service can be secured only by 
passing a rigid competitive examination. 

By Act of Congress, the Classified Service has been ex- 
tended from a few thousand positions in the beginning, until 
it now includes more than 100,000 individual positions. In 
1896, President Cleveland placed 27,563 positions, previously 
unclassified, in the Classified Service. Since there are thous- 
ands of these positions, there are many changes in the working 
force and many vacancies to be filled at all times. 

Our students are kept informed of all changes which 
interest or affect them. 

"Uncle Sam" is a good paymaster. He pays the highest 
wages, pays regularly, and his employees are not affected 
by "hard times." 

There are thousands of people who would be glad to 
hold one of these positions in the Government Service, but 
who do not know how to secure an appointment. We not 
only help the applicant to pass the examination, but to select 
from the scores of examinations given by the Commission, the 
one best suited to his attainments, and the one which will lead 

31 



to an early appointment to a position paying a good salary and 
offering the best chance of promotion. For those stndents 
who live outside of Washington and are not able to attend the 
classes at the school we have arranged correspondence courses. 
The tuitions for these courses are very reasonable. Any de- 
sired information about these courses will be gladly furnished 
on request. 

The school prepares applicants for the entrance examina- 
tions to the West Point Military Academy, to the Annapolis 
Naval Academy and for entrance into any of the leading Un- 
iversities. Instruction in the higher college courses is given 
to those students who have had sufficient preliminary training. 
The Academy is open day and night throughout the year and 
the student may enter at any time. We expect each student 
under our care to work hard and to make marked progress 
within a short time. The atmosphere of the school is one of 
hard work and we do not want any student who is not willing 
to apply himself or herself seriously to the work. In the busi- 
ness department, we aim to so train our students that they are 
able not only to secure good positions but to hold these posi- 
tions after they are secured, and to give satisfaction to the 
employer. Any further information about the courses may 
be had by writing to the Principal of the Academy. 



32 



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